Quebec City – Retirementally Challenged

Thursday Doors: Tears for Quebec

I had quite a different Thursday Doors planned for today… until I read Norm’s on his blog Norm 2.0. His post was a departure from his usual intriguing but lighthearted #ThursdayDoors posts. What he wrote today was thoughtful, emotionally powerful, and it hit me in the gut.

Go ahead, read it now if you haven’t already. I’ll be here when you get back.

My husband and visited Quebec City this past June, just days after the horrible massacre at the Pulse nightclub in Orlando, Florida. That shooter killed 49 people and wounded 53 others before being shot and killed by the police. His reason for the rampage: Hate.

U.S. Consulate General office in Old Quebec, 2016.

As we were touring Old Quebec, we came upon the United States Consulate General office located along one of the many lovely streets in this incredibly beautiful city. As awful as the news had been just a few days before, seeing a large rainbow flag flying at half-mast next to the U.S. Consulate door, made us proud of our country and our (then) government. The flag was a clear display of deep sorrow and a show of solidarity with a community that often finds itself maligned.

Now, we read about the massacre that happened in beautiful Quebec City. The gunman used a different religion to justify his action, his skin was of a different color, and his targets were a different “other.” But, his motivation was the same: Hate.

Evil feeds on evil. Rather than speaking words that lift us up and encourage our better selves, people in power – and those who seek power – are speaking words of hate and suspicion. They do it because it works, they do it because some people need to feel “better than” to feel good about themselves.

I’m not sure when this evil will stop, or if it ever will, but I know we need to speak out against it when we can. We need to defend the “others” who are victims of the hate and let them know that they are us and we are them; we are all in this together.

I wonder what flag is flying outside the United States Consulate General office today. I hope very much that it is one displaying deep sorrow and solidarity with a community that often finds itself maligned.

Cycling to the Chute

Street rider

Québec City – like most Canadian cities we visited on our recent road trip – is very bicycle-friendly. When we mentioned to our Airbnb host that we like to cycle, he recommended a ride that would take us from Lower Old Québec to Chute-Montmorency, Québec’s majestic waterfall on the Montmorency River.

Fortunately, Québec City not only has a wonderful network of hiking and bike paths, but they have several rental shops that are happy to provide bikes, helmets, locks, and a helpful map. For about $25 dollars (Canadian) each for a four-hour rental, my husband and I had everything we needed to explore the area via pedal-power.

Me rider

The ride to Montmorency Falls was a pretty easy one. Just under ten miles and fairly flat, it took us alongside the harbor, under and around railroad tracks, and through parks, residential areas, and some commercial zones. We made the ride on a Saturday but, because we started early, we didn’t have a lot of company on the trail.

Montmorency Falls Park is just a few minutes from downtown Québec City and is easily accessible by car (but, I really encourage anyone to go by bicycle if they can). There is plenty of parking, several picnic areas, and a visitors’ center where we picked up a map of the park and bought tickets for the aerial tram.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The waterfall is 275 ft (84 m) tall, which is actually higher (98 ft or 30 m) than the Niagara Falls (as you will be proudly told more than once) and is truly spectacular. The park is really laid out nicely with well-groomed paths, a suspension bridge that spans the top of the falls, and an amazing 487-foot wooden stairway that hugs the side of a cliff. We opted to ride the aerial tram from the bottom of the park to the top of the falls and come back down via the stairway, but plenty of hardy souls take the stairs both ways. And, for the real adventurous types, there is a zip line across the falls and rock climbing opportunities.

Bike path home with Quebec City in the distance.

After spending a couple of hours enjoying the falls, we returned to beautiful Québec City for our final afternoon and evening. We were happy to find that the main avenue had been closed off for a street fair and enjoyed several hours of music and people watching.

Then, to top off a glorious day, we were treated to a spectacular sunset. We had to leave in the morning for our next destination, but we knew that some day we’d be back.

Thursday Doors: Quebec City’s Holy Door

I had never participated in Norm 2.0’s ongoing Thursday Doors linked posts before, but when we saw—then walked through—the Holy Door of the Basilica Norte-Dame de Quebec, I knew it would be a perfect way to share the experience.

I am not Catholic, nor am I particularly religious, but it’s hard not to be awed by the splendor of the world’s great churches. The practical side of me thinks the construction costs could have been better put to use feeding the poor and housing the homeless, but I also admire the magnificence of the architecture and opulent adornments.

Cathédrale_de_Québec

Notre-Dame-de-Quebec has a large physical and a spiritual presence in Quebec City. It was the first Catholic parish in North America, north of Mexico, and is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Quebec.

To celebrate the 350^th anniversary of the Basilica, the Vatican awarded Notre-Dame-de-Quebec the exceptional privilege of installing the first Holy Door outside of Europe. There are seven Holy Doors in the world: four in Rome, one in France, one in Spain, and now this one in Quebec City.

Walkway leading up to the Holy Door

Holy Door open to all of good will

What is a Holy Door? According to Catholic teachings, a Holy Door is a visible symbol of oneness with the Universal Church and of internal renewal, which begins with the desire to make peace with God. Holy Doors are typically only opened during Jubilee years, which are “years of remission, of indulgence, and also of reconciliation, conversion and sacramental penance.”

Quebec City’s Holy Door was installed in the wall of the Chapel of the Sacred Heart on the north side of the Basilica and first opened December 8, 2013. Following Church tradition, it remained open for one year and then was to be sealed by mortar and cement for about 25 years (until the next Jubilee in 2039).

So, why, in 2016, were we able to pass through the Holy Door even though it had been sealed shut? Fortunately for us, Holy Doors can be re-opened if the Pope deems it appropriate and, in 2015, Pope Francis declared that current international events called for an extraordinary year of mercy. He announced that the Jubilee of Mercy would take place from December 2015 to November 2016 and all Holy Doors would be open during that time.

Also fortunately for my husband and me, walking through a Holy Door is not restricted to practicing Catholics, but it is available to “all persons of good will.” We were told that by passing through the Door one can “reconcile with your neighbors, restore in yourself everything that has been damaged in the past, and reshape your heart.”

Catholic or not, who wouldn’t want to experience that!

GratiTuesday: European charm without the jet lag

Our second stop after enjoying a few days in Montreal was Quebec City, North America’s only walled city north of Mexico City. Based on a visit my husband made there many years ago (pre-me), we decided to allow for a longer stay so we had more time to take in the sights.

The fortifications were developed between 1608 and 1871, erected under both French and British regimes. — The fortifications were built between 1608 and 1871, erected under both French and British regimes.

Upon entering the old walls, it was easy to see why Old Town Quebec has been designated a World Heritage site. The stone buildings and cobblestone streets are reminiscent of European cities and, of course, the French influence is evident everywhere. We were eager to check into our Airbnb and ditch our rental car. This was a town that begged to be explored on foot.

Our first Airbnb, nicknamed “The Gallery,” was very nice

After a nice lunch out, we often opted to have a simple dinner at our flat

This was to be our first experience with Airbnb and we weren’t quite sure what to expect. Fortunately, from the moment we met our host, Frederick, and saw our apartment, it was obvious that we made a good choice. The apartment was well-equipped and comfortable, and the small kitchen would help us avoid too many expensive and unhealthy meals out. It was just a few blocks from a busy area, but, since the apartment was located on a side street, it provided a quiet respite from the hub-bub. We were also pleasantly surprised that Frederick had put together a nice guidebook with helpful suggestions of things to do and see as well as places to eat.

As soon as we got unpacked, we put on our walking shoes and left to explore our new neighborhood, pick up a few groceries, and sign up for an English-language walking tour the next day.

Le Chateau Frontenac is said to be the world’s most photographed hotel

The Terrasse Dufferin is a favorite place to stroll, people watch, and take in gorgeous views of the port and the Saint Lawrence River

I am so grateful when I visit an historical gem like Quebec City. Even though the streets are filled with tourists (and, there wasn’t even a cruise ship in port), and Subway Sandwiches and a few tacky T-shirt shops have found their way in, Quebec City has managed to hold on to its core beauty. The centuries-old architecture, historic sites, beautiful views of the Saint Lawrence River, and lovely sidewalk cafes invite you to explore this living museum.

Read more about our visit to Quebec City in my next post.